Granny Chi’s, originally named Chi Shu-dai and later renamed Chi Tai,
is a ninth-generation member of the Chi clan in Shui Hau. Born in 1928,
she was primarily a farmer in her younger years and also worked as an
amah for a while. At 22, she married fellow villager Chan Sau, who served
as the village head from 1965 to 1995. Together, they had nine children.
Chi describes herself as a bit of a busybody. She has loved singing rhymes
since childhood and still enjoys singing with her relative Tsui Tak-tai,
also from Shui Hau.
Written by Helen CHEUNG | Photography by CHU Wai-kit
Edited by Joe WONG | Translated by Shirley LAU
My birth name was Chi Shu-dai, but when I applied for my ID card, the staff changed it to Chi
Tai. I was born in Shui Hau. I’m the fifth child in the family, the youngest daughter. My dad
was from Shui Hau. He died young, so I have no memory of him. My mum was a Hakka from
Shap Long in Pui O. My home village is Shui Hau Village on Lantau. I’ve lived on the farmland
left behind by my great-grandfather.
I used to grow two rice crops every year. The first crop was planted in March and harvested
in July. The second was planted in August and harvested in November. Back then, every
household in Shui Hau Village had a head of brown cattle for farming. I would get up at
daybreak to take care of our ox. I took it out to
graze and brought it back later so the adults could
use it to plough and harrow the farmland. The
ox couldn’t reach the four corners of the fields,
so it was my job to loosen the soil with a hoe. At
noon, I’d bring lunch to my elder brothers and
my mum. We ate sweet potatoes and taro for both
breakfast and lunch. We didn’t have the money to
buy fertilisers. After cutting down the weeds, we’d
burn them into ash, which was used to cover the
waste in the dry toilet. We’d pile it all up to make
fertiliser.
I’d run all over the hills with my elder brothers and sisters. We would pick wild fruits such as
rose myrtle and Indian gooseberry. At night, we’d throw bundles of rice straw at each other for
fun. We played until we were tired and then went to sleep. I also followed my mum to pick chi
hau and small oysters. The lighter tasks were done by women — such as working in the fields
and picking chi hau. The heavy tasks were done by men — like carrying heavy stuff, fishing in
the sea, and collecting sea urchins.
Hardships? There were plenty. My mum died when I was 12. I had an elder uncle in Gold
Mountain (San Francisco, the US) who sent money to another uncle to look after me. Because
of that, I was able to attend Tung Koon School1 in Cheung Chau for three months. But my aunt
was very mean. She made me carry buckets of water and sold me off to work as a maid. That
family didn’t want me because I was small and not strong enough to farm, so I ended up living
alone in the old house that my parents left behind. Every week, my aunt gave me just enough
rice to fill three mugs. I survived by picking pandanus seeds by the seaside to fill my stomach.
Later, a friend helped me find work as a live-in maid for Cheung King-pak, the principal of
Cheung Chau Anglo-Chinese School.2 My most vivid memory of the Japanese army is when
they asked me to dry a big pile of $10 Hong Kong banknotes. There were so many that they
covered the whole house. During the four years I worked for the school principal, he was very
kind to me. I earned $20 a month. It wasn’t much, but I was still better off than many!
Photo courtesy of Mink Chan
Back then, my cousin and Ah Sau (Chan Sau) were living in Sai Ying Pun. Ah Sau worked at the
Pok Fu Lam cemetery3 clearing bones. When they had time off, they’d come to Cheung Chau
to see me. When we were little, Ah Sau lived in the upper village in Shui Hau, and I lived in the
lower village. The adults didn’t allow boys and girls to play together, but I knew he was from
the same village. I also knew he was a good boy and was careful with money. He was an orphan
too and had no complicated family ties. He had his own farmland. It was good he knew how to
farm. With him, I wouldn’t be rich but I wouldn’t starve either!
In the past, people rarely married someone from the same village because they were afraid
of being too closely related and their children might be born with problems. Before we got
married, we checked carefully to make sure we were not related. Before I really got to know Ah
Sau, there was this boy from Mong Tung Wan who often came looking for me. He was dumb
and clingy. I said to him: “Just go away. Why are you always watching me wash clothes?” He
also bought movie tickets and asked me to go to Cheung Chau Cinema4 with him. I ended up
giving the ticket to someone else.
I married Ah Sau when I was 22. Two years later, I gave birth to our eldest daughter. After that,
we returned to Shui Hau to farm. We had six dau5 of farmland, but no savings to buy cattle,
so we had to borrow one from my sister-in-law who lived in Pui O. Each harvest yielded more
than 100 catties of rice. The second crop was better in quality, so we kept that for ourselves.
The rice we grew had smaller grains. It was soft, smooth and fragrant.
Later, we started growing black glutinous rice, which was worth more. Some people would
soak it to make black rice wine to nourish health. For the first crop, we sold the rice with the
husk on. Of course it was the stronger one who handled that! And I didn’t have time as I was
busy looking after the kids. Ah Sau would carry the rice to Mui Wo and Tai O to sell. The
money he earned was used to buy fresh vegetables, preserved radish, and dried seafood like
salted fish and dried shrimp.
Photo courtesy of Mink Chan
The government began building South Lantau Road in 1955. I worked as a labourer, starting
from Cheung Sha Fire Station. We built it section by section all the way to Shek Pik Reservoir,
earning just over $20 a day. Tai kam (Tsui Tak-tai; the term “tai kam” refers to the wife of the
brother of one’s mother)6 and I mixed cement and mortar together. I shoveled the sand onto
the truck, and she mixed it into concrete. We also went to Shek Pik Reservoir to plant trees.
When the government built Shek Pik Reservoir in the 1960s, the Waterworks Office hired Ah
Sau to manage the catchwater system. He earned over $300 a month. That was when we finally
had a proper income and started to save money.But from then on, we stopped planting rice
and only grew some vegetables and sweet potatoes.
In the countryside, village folks owned their own land. But if you stopped farming, weeds
would take over and it’d be a real struggle to make the land usable again! In the 1970s, Ah Sau
sold part of our land to get some money. With that and our savings, we had enough to build
a new house. We hired local villagers to help. The men earned $30 a day, and the women $20.
Some carpenters were in charge of the main construction. The women carried river sand from
the estuary and also helped lay bricks. Everyone worked together. It was all about “you scratch
my back and I’ll scratch yours”. When it was your turn to build a house, I’d be there to help too.
Ah Sau was really capable. He was a hardworking farmer and skilled in carpentry. He also got
along well with everyone. The villagers signed their names to support him to be the village
head. It takes the right spark for people to click, or it can be torched by a pirate’s trick. From
1965 to 1995, he served as village head — 30 years in total. If someone wanted to build a ding
house (a small house that male indigenous villagers are entitled to build under the New
Territories Small House Policy), Ah Sau would help write letters, sign documents and even run
errands to deliver them to government offices in Central.
I think Ah Sau’s biggest contribution to Shui Hau Village was lobbying the government
to build the Shui Hau Village Office, the football pitch in Lower Wan Lung, and the Chan
Ancestral Hall. He had good relationships with villagers from Shui Hau and Mui Wo, District
Office officials, and members of the Rural Committee. Everyone calls him “Sau Gor”. Is he
sweet to me? Well, sometimes. Let’s just say, not as good as the best, but better than the worst!
I have nine kids — three boys and six girls. My eldest daughter was born at Cheung Chau Sap Chi Wui Hospital,7 the second to fourth were born at our home in Shui Hau. The fifth was
delivered in a village house in Mui Wo, with the help of nurse Sung. The other three were born in Cheung Sha Hospital.8 The grandest birth was that of my youngest daughter, Mink (Chan Fung-ming).9 I was having contractions, but Cheung Sha Hospital wouldn’t take me in because having a ninth baby was considered too risky. The nurse called a high-speed ferry to
rush me to Tsan Yuk Hospital in Sai Wan, where I gave birth to Mink.
Photo courtesy of Mink Chan
I had wanted my kids to learn farming and help me out, but there’s no future in farming. Shui Hau School opened in 1954, and I sent all the kids there to study. Later, they moved to the city
to work, got married and had children. I visit them sometimes. I’m a village woman. I don’t
know how to appreciate what’s good out there, and there’s nowhere nice to walk around.
But young people have their own way of thinking. Older folks shouldn’t interfere with how
they live. What matters most is they still know how to worship gods and pay respect to the
ancestors. Old customs must not be taken away, and don’t add what’s new.
I grew up singing rhymes. When I got tired from farming, I’d sing a bit to lighten my mood.
I especially loved singing the rhyme about bird names. Some rhymes were playful banter
flirting with the boys. You’d tease them or even throw a few insults. “There’s a bowl of dog
poo water on the table. Each person takes a sip and moves along!” 10 If you didn’t have a sharp
tongue and tease people a bit, they’d walk all over you!
Villagers would sing at weddings and other happy occasions, like when a son got married or
when a couple had been married for a month. When a boy in a family got married, his name
was “raised” during the evening wedding banquet. A group of men played gongs and drums,
singing the “name raising song” and hanging a piece of paper with the groom’s name on the
east wall of the house. The atmosphere was lively.
For the one-month celebration, the groom’s family would invite the bride’s family over to sing
rhymes. They knew who could sing and would nudge these people to stay for dinner and even
overnight to keep singing. The bride’s aunts would stand in a row and sing a cappella, and the
men would sing in response. Those who didn’t know how to sing would get teased with a few
verses, make a funny face and walk away. That was ages ago!
I always liked to look good. When I made some money working in Cheung Chau, I had some
silk outfits made. Each set came with a top and pants. Some were in black and others in pale
yellow. They cost a little more than $10 each. I’d dress up nice and neat and head off with my
relatives to sing. We usually went to San Tau Village and Pak Mong Village.
I was all over the place when I was young, haha! I’d explore every nook and cranny of the
village just to hear the older folks sing. I paid close attention, and once I got the hang of it, I
loved singing the rhymes. Even people from the next village used to say: “Ah Dai is welcome to
come over to sing.” Getting praised made me happy! There were rhymes in Mui Wo and Tong
Fuk too. Tai kam even knows the rhymes from Shek Pik. A few years ago, she often came to my
place to sing and chat with me. “Tai kam comes over every day. When she doesn’t, her heart
feels grey.” I created this rhyme myself!
In the post-war period, Tung Kwan School was merged with Po An School and Wai Chiu Hall to become what is now
Cheung Chau Kwok Man School. Source: 羅慧燕 (2015)。藍天樹下:新界鄉村學校。香港:三聯書店(香港)有限公司。
(Chinese version only)
Exhumation refers to the practice of placing human bones, after burial and decomposition, into funerary urns.
Built in 1931, Cheung Chau Cinema was one of the few pre-war cinemas in Hong Kong. It closed in 1997 and was later
listed as a Grade III historic building. In 2023, it was revitalised and transformed into the Cheung Chau Cinema
Multicultural Park.
In Hong Kong, farmland is traditionally measured in the unit "dau chung" (斗種), with one dau equal to approximately
7,260 square feet.
“Sap Chi Wui Hospital” mentioned by Granny Chi is Cheung Chau Hospital. It was built under the name of the St. John
Ambulance Association with donations from businessmen Aw Boon Haw and Aw Boon Par. It opened in 1934 as St.
John Ambulance Association Haw Par Hospital. In Chinese, it was known as Haw Par Hospital as well as St. John
Hospital. The complex has been listed as a Grade III historic building. Source: 陸志聰(2020 年1 月16 日)。〈「虎豹醫院」與廚房外的「神秘」石頭〉。思考香港。https://www.thinkhk.com/article/2020-01/16/38807.html
(Chinese version only)
Cheung Sha Hospital, also known as Lantau Hospital, was located at 3 Cheung Fu Street, Cheung Sha. It opened in June
1960 and ceased operations in 1990. Source: Sustainable Lantau Office, The Chinese University of Hong Kong (2022).
Cultural and Historical Studies of Pui O, Shui Hau and Neighbouring Areas on Lantau: Study Report.
https://sslo.cedd.gov.hk/filemanager/en/content_104/Pui_O_Shui_Hau-Study_Report-ENG.pdf
The whole rhyme goes like this: "Big and small chunks of clay. They bloody come over here without knowing how to sing. There's a bowl of dog poo water on the table. Each person takes a sip and moves along!"