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Shui Hau — A diverse and dynamic blend of nature and culture

Written by Helen Cheung
Photo courtesy of Wong Wai Cheong

I always take New Lantao Bus number 11 from Tung Chung to Shui Hau. When the bus ascends through Pak Kung Au, I can feel a slight pressure in my ears. The bus then moves through the thin mist along Tung Chung Road. After going downhill past the roundabout, we reach the southern part of Lantau. Through the bus window, I can see the sandy beaches of Cheung Sha and Tong Fuk. Soon after, we arrive at Shui Hau Village. Local villagers often say “one sky, two lands” when describing the different weather between Shui Hau and other parts of Hong Kong. Even when it's pouring in the urban areas of Hong Kong, thick clouds seem trapped on the high hills of Lantau. The weather here feels like it’s in a world of its own.

Shui Hau Village is nestled against the mountain ranges of Lantau, notably the Lantau Peak and the nearby Kau Nga Ling. The area is covered in dense layers of foliage, including tall trees, low shrubs and climbing vines that cling to trunks. They stretch towards the sunlight to make their own food. Occasionally, a barking deer darts through the trees, and shortlived butterflies sip dew from the air. The leaves of large trees and grasses gather moisture, which then joins small streams on the soil or seeps into the ground. The water flows along the streams and manholes, passing through residential areas and South Lantau Road and reaching the flat wetlands downstream.
On the winding path, the trees on both sides obscure the view of the stream behind. The loud ribbit of frogs and the songs of birds fill the air. To move forward, you must bend slightly to avoid the thorny screw pine leaves, the hanging branches of tall trees and cow dung on the ground. At the very end of the path, the largest sandflats in South Lantau come into view.

Decaying leaves floating on the hill streams gradually break down; microscopic algae are carried in by the sea. These organic nutrients, driven by the daily ebb and flow of the tides, accumulate on the sandflats at Shui Hau Wan. Mangroves stretch along the coastline, and a freshwater river cuts through the site, flowing into the bay. The intertidal zone, covering more than 20 hectares, has become the habitat for many species. On the shore, fiddler crabs, gobies and Batillaria snails can be found, while Asiatic hard clams and false cockles are buried in the sand. When the tide recedes to below one metre, you can reach the rocky outcrops away from the shore. The dark brown rocks are covered with coarse barnacles and oysters. Beneath them, quick-moving small crabs scuttle about. If startled, they quickly dart into the rock gaps, cautiously scanning for any signs of danger.

There are no historical records of the origin of Shui Hau’s name, which literally means “the discharge point where rivers and streams flow into the sea”. The natural habitats here are diverse and interconnected. Nestled among hills, rivers, wetlands and the sea, Shui Hau Village is home to a variety of animals and plants that live, forage and thrive here. Generations ago, the ancestors of today’s Shui Hau villagers also chose to settle on this southern fringe of Lantau Island.

Some villagers recall that in the mid-20th century, Shui Hau Wan was home to boat-dwelling fishermen, while on the shore there were three clans living in the village — the Chan, Fung and Chi. The village had no walls or drum towers. Looking out to sea, one would see fields of rice. On the hills, villagers could pick plants and collect firewood for domestic use. On the shore, they could find seafood. The east-west axis connecting South Lantau Road leads to four other villages — Shek Pik, Tong Fuk, Cheung Sha and Pui O. To go to Hong Kong Island, you can hike through the hills and reach the ferry pier in Mui Wo. But many villagers in Shui Hau preferred rowing a boat from Shui Hau Wan to Cheung Chau, where they buy or sell farm products in the market.

Today, commuting to and from the city has become much easier, but the indigenous villagers and new settlers remain in Shui Hau, enjoying the rich ecological environment and peaceful surroundings.

Related Projects
Grain Store
House No.49, Shui Hau
Related Person
Tsui Tak-tai
Prof. Thomas Chung

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About Shui Hau

Impression of Shui HauGuidelines for Visitors

Nature

NatureBiodiversity

Conservations

School of Architecture, CUHKOther NGOs.HKBWS.WWF-HK

Culture

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Gallery

PhotosVideos

About us

Urban DiaryContact UsAcknowledgements

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