Shui Hau — A diverse and dynamic blend of
nature and culture
Written by Helen Cheung Photo courtesy of Wong Wai Cheong
I always take New Lantao Bus number 11 from Tung Chung to Shui Hau. When the bus ascends through Pak Kung Au, I can feel a slight pressure in my ears. The bus then moves through the
thin mist along Tung Chung Road. After going downhill past the roundabout, we reach the
southern part of Lantau. Through the bus window, I can see the sandy beaches of Cheung
Sha and Tong Fuk. Soon after, we arrive at Shui Hau Village. Local villagers often say “one sky,
two lands” when describing the different weather between Shui Hau and other parts of Hong
Kong. Even when it's pouring in the urban areas of Hong Kong, thick clouds seem trapped on
the high hills of Lantau. The weather here feels like it’s in a world of its own.
Shui Hau Village is nestled against the mountain ranges of Lantau, notably the Lantau Peak
and the nearby Kau Nga Ling. The area is covered in dense layers of foliage, including tall
trees, low shrubs and climbing vines that cling to trunks. They stretch towards the sunlight
to make their own food. Occasionally, a barking deer darts through the trees, and shortlived
butterflies sip dew from the air. The leaves of large trees and grasses gather moisture,
which then joins small streams on the soil or seeps into the ground. The water flows along
the streams and manholes, passing through residential areas and South Lantau Road and
reaching the flat wetlands downstream.
On the winding path, the trees on both sides obscure the view of the stream behind. The loud
ribbit of frogs and the songs of birds fill the air. To move forward, you must bend slightly to
avoid the thorny screw pine leaves, the hanging branches of tall trees and cow dung on the
ground. At the very end of the path, the largest sandflats in South Lantau come into view.
Decaying leaves floating on the hill streams gradually break down; microscopic algae are
carried in by the sea. These organic nutrients, driven by the daily ebb and flow of the tides,
accumulate on the sandflats at Shui Hau Wan. Mangroves stretch along the coastline, and a
freshwater river cuts through the site, flowing into the bay. The intertidal zone, covering more
than 20 hectares, has become the habitat for many species. On the shore, fiddler crabs, gobies
and Batillaria snails can be found, while Asiatic hard clams and false cockles are buried in
the sand. When the tide recedes to below one metre, you can reach the rocky outcrops away
from the shore. The dark brown rocks are covered with coarse barnacles and oysters. Beneath
them, quick-moving small crabs scuttle about. If startled, they quickly dart into the rock gaps,
cautiously scanning for any signs of danger.
There are no historical records of the origin of Shui Hau’s name, which literally means “the
discharge point where rivers and streams flow into the sea”. The natural habitats here are
diverse and interconnected. Nestled among hills, rivers, wetlands and the sea, Shui Hau
Village is home to a variety of animals and plants that live, forage and thrive here. Generations
ago, the ancestors of today’s Shui Hau villagers also chose to settle on this southern fringe of
Lantau Island.
Some villagers recall that in the mid-20th century, Shui Hau Wan was home to boat-dwelling
fishermen, while on the shore there were three clans living in the village — the Chan, Fung
and Chi. The village had no walls or drum towers. Looking out to sea, one would see fields of
rice. On the hills, villagers could pick plants and collect firewood for domestic use. On the
shore, they could find seafood. The east-west axis connecting South Lantau Road leads to four
other villages — Shek Pik, Tong Fuk, Cheung Sha and Pui O. To go to Hong Kong Island, you
can hike through the hills and reach the ferry pier in Mui Wo. But many villagers in Shui Hau
preferred rowing a boat from Shui Hau Wan to Cheung Chau, where they buy or sell farm
products in the market.
Today, commuting to and from the city has become much easier, but the indigenous villagers
and new settlers remain in Shui Hau, enjoying the rich ecological environment and peaceful
surroundings.