At 19, Tsui Tak-tai married and moved from Shek Pik Tai Tsuen to Shui
Hau Village. Her husband passed away young, leaving her to raise their
three children on her own. Tsui loves singing rhymes as a way to express
her feelings and reminisce about her life experiences. She is skilled in
many things: farming, clam-digging, oyster catching and fishing. She also
helped build the catchwater for Shek Pik Reservoir. Villagers admire her
resilience and optimistic nature.
Written by Helen CHEUNG | Edited by Joe WONG
Translated by Shirley LAU | Photo courtesy of WONG Wai-cheong
A one-legged hwamei can hardly fly over a high mountain.
A person with only one hand struggles to make ends meet.
It takes hard work with both hands to earn a living,
And steady shoulders to keep moving forward.
When the stomach is empty, the mind is in turmoil.
How to find the leisure to weave fine linen?
- A Wai Tau dialect folk song of Shui Hau Village
I was born in Shek Pik Tai Tsuen. I’ve been living in Shui Hau Village since I got married at 19.
My husband Chi Kwan-fat was a year younger than me. His original surname was Chan, but he
was later adopted into the Chi family. Our marriage was arranged by our families even before
we were born. Before we got married, I once saw him from a distance. He wasn’t tall but was
very handsome. We tied the knot on 22 October 1945, shortly after the war ended. That day I
wore a red gown and was carried on a bridal sedan chair. Many people came to celebrate with us.
Two years after we got married, my mother-in-law
passed away. My father-in-law was overbearing. He
would often shout at me, making me cry. Maybe
it was because my husband wasn’t his biological
child. My husband would tell me: “He’s getting old.
Just put up with him. Let him be.”
My husband worked too much. When I was 29,
he died from tuberculosis, leaving me with three
children — our eldest son, eldest daughter, and
a daughter who was born after his death. I was
devastated, but there was nothing I could do. A married woman can’t return to her parents’
home. Some families suggested I remarry with someone from San Shek Wan or Shap Long.
But if I did that, my children would be treated worse than dogs. Why would I do such a stupid
thing? My husband owned quite a bit of farmland — several dau in total. It was enough to
plant about a dozen catty of grain seeds.1 So I worked through the hardship bit by bit.
“Meals are never guaranteed, like a boat that never docks in the same bay.” Every morning
when the sun rose at 6am, I’d get up and cook a pot of rice. By 7am, I’d have eaten and head
out to the fields. At noon, I’d come back home for lunch. It was cold rice with brown sugar. My
children ate the same. Sometimes we added shrimp paste and salted shrimp. Either I bought
them or I made them. Then it was back to the fields. When the sun set, I’d cook dinner. There
was no free time as I had to farm and fish. Life was so tough my hands became all wrinkly.
If you farm, you’ll have rice to eat!
Sometimes when I needed money
to buy food or tools, I’d row my
boat to Cheung Chau to sell my
grain. One tam could fetch me
$20 to $30.2 I also raised chickens
and pigs, harvested small oysters,
scads3 and goose barnacles. We
never worried about not having
food to eat! The chickens I raised
grew quickly. Every morning I’d feed the chicks. They ate all day. In just three months, they
would weigh several catties. I used to have a small boat that I took out fishing. Because the
water currents changed every day, there were only a few days each month that were good for
going out to the sea. I was best at catching scads. I’d cut some mullets into small pieces and
use them as bait. I just threw them into the gaps between rocks and stirred the water a bit. On
a good day, I could catch up to 10 catties. To make sun-dried salted fish, I’d use karut croaker,
rockfish and baby grouper. I was also quite good at catching small oysters. The oyster shells
would stick to big rocks, so I’d use an oyster knife4 to chip and chop them and scoop them
out. Over the years, I’ve accumulated about a dozen oyster knives. “The oyster girl faces west
had better marry the fish boy.” A cheeky, naughty song, that one!
When the tide was low during the days around the first and 15th days of each lunar month, I’d
head out to Shui Hau Wan at 4am to 5am to dig for chi hau. I had good eyesight back then, so I
could easily spot chi hau eyes. The sand around them was softer. I’d stick my chi hau sickle into
the sand, and when it hit a chi hau, you’d hear a “clack-clack” sound. Then I’d use the hook of
the sickle to scoop it up. The trick? You need sharp eyes and you need to keep poking around. I
learned to use the sickle by observing others, then I made my own sickle. When I went to Shui
Hau Wan, I always brought along two bamboo baskets. I put all the chi hau I caught into the
baskets. In the end, I’d use the sickle to hang one basket in front and one behind, and carry
them home. At home, I’d cook the chi hau with ginger and spring onions. Sometimes I tossed
in some melon. Or I’d dry them to keep for later. I wasn’t a fan of chi hau. They were mostly for
my kids. Sometimes I’d take a batch over to Fung Wong Bungalow Store and sell them for $15 a
catty.
Even in 2018 when I was 92, I was still out there digging. One time a tourist asked me how to
find them. I pointed to a chi hau eye and told them to dig there. They did and they dug out
some big ones! These days, too many people come here to dig. They trample all over the sand,
so you can’t find chi hau eyes anymore. Now it’s just guesswork. Oh well, whatever!
Back in 1960, when the government was building Shek Pik Reservoir, they hired people from
Shui Hau Village to work as labourers. I helped build the catchwater road,5 which stretched all
the way to Cheung Sha. At first, I was making $3.5 a day, but later it went up to $20 or even $30.
In three years, I managed to save $12,000. That was enough to marry a wife [like most men did
back then]!
Construction work paid better. So I stopped working in the fields. But the downside was I
couldn’t get fresh groceries. Tai O was a three-hour walk away, so a round trip took six hours.
That just wasn’t doable. So I ended up eating salted eggs, Chinese sausages and fermented tofu
every day. By then, all my kids were working in the city. Life was tough. It’s not something you
can explain to others. I worked as a labourer for less than 10 years and retired at 55.
My grandchild was born in 1981. Then I moved to Tsing Yi to live with my eldest son and help
take care of the baby. Two years later, I moved back to Shui Hau. With Ah Dai (Chi Tai),6 I went fishing, dug for clams, and grew melons and vegetables. I kept this up well into my 80s.
I love radish! And my memory is still sharp. Even in my 90s, I still remember things from long
ago. My grandson Ah Cheong (Wong Wai-cheong) has taken lots of photos of me making cha
guo. They come with three flavours: Chinese fevervine, mugwort and ramie leaves.
I’ve been missing my husband all these years. He passed away in the hospital on Kowloon
Hill.7 That place was too far away. I didn’t even get to see him one last time. But then, what good does it do to keep missing someone? Women are like seeds — wherever we marry, that’s
where we take root.
Photos for this article were taken by Wong Wai-cheong during his studies at the School of Design, The Hong Kong Polytechnic University, from 2009 to 2012.
This refers to rice seeds. In Hong Kong, farmland is traditionally measured in a unit called "dau chung" (斗種), with
one dau equal to approximately 7,260 square feet.
Tsui grew two to three crops of rice per year. At most, she could harvest four bamboo baskets of rice a day.
In Cantonese, two bamboo baskets make up one tam, and one tam is equivalent to 100 catties, which could sell for
HK$20 to $30. Each crop yielded around 30 baskets of rice, and could earn Tsui $300 to $450 if sold in full.
Scad is a type of sea fish commonly eaten in Hong Kong. It often hides in crevices between large rocks.
An oyster knife is a tool used for scraping shellfish from rocks.
A catchwater road is a water diversion structure that collects rainwater and funnels it into a reservoir.
Chi Tai is a ninth-generation member of the Chi clan in Shui Hau. Her birth name was Chi Shu-dai (池樹底),
which was later changed to Chi Tai. Tsui Tak-tai calls her Ah Dai. For Chi Tai's story, see https://shuihau.hk/en/chi-tai/.
The hospital on Kowloon Hill Tsui mentioned refers to a former hospital for infectious diseases in Lai Chi Kok.
Originally converted from a prison in 1938, it specialised in treating patients with tuberculosis and cholera. In 1975, it
became a psychiatric hospital; in 2000, it was repurposed as a long-term care facility. Today, the complex has been
revitalised and transformed into Jao Tsung-I Academy.
Source: Siu, K. K., Hong Kong Cultural Imaging Workshop (2017). Research Study and Heritage Interpretation of
Historic Relics in Jao Tsung-I Academy.
https://docslib.org/doc/8495171/research-study-and-heritage-interpretation-of-historic-relics-in-jao-tsung-i-academy-1